But just as I was about to settle back and take my own book out, I noticed from the corner of my eyes, the hand of the woman sitting next to me – reading. It was not a woman’s hand. It was that of a man. I slowly turned to look at her – and I instantly knew why everyone had been staring at me. The person sitting next to me was a eunuch. She was dressed in a saree, with loads of bangles that clinkled as she turned the pages of the book. No wonder the seat was vacant I realized. After an initial sense of fear, I decided to keep sitting. My aching back was of more concern to me that a fellow passenger who was calmly sitting and reading, oblivious to the undercurrent of tension around. But as I sat there I noticed that the book she was reading was upside down.

And then it hit me. She was as nervous as was everyone else to be here. She was trying her best to appear as calm, but with this act, she had betrayed her fear and discomfort. All of a sudden, the fear, the disgust and the discomfort I felt sitting so close to someone like her, dissipated. I felt sympathy and was sad for her. I could feel how difficult life must be for such people – to not be accepted, to not be welcome anywhere, to have no source of income or any avenue for entertainment. They were not responsible for their constitution, but we treated them like they were.

And to see her sitting there amidst people who were so antagonistic, so unwelcoming and so condescending, putting up such a brave front, made me become her unsaid ally.

I told myself that if she thought she was a woman, then for me she was a woman – who has all the right to be in a ladies’ compartment.

“What are you reading” I suddenly asked her. She was as stunned as the others and it took a while before she answered. “Devdas. It’s a very old novel,” she replied with a smile. I smiled back. “I have read this one. It is very good. Have you read another by this author? I asked and soon we were talking about books and authors, much to everyone’s shock.

Soon it was time for me to debark. She was getting off two stops later. I said bye to her and added that I really enjoyed talking to her about such interesting books.  Just when I shook her hand to say it was nice meeting her, she smiled, held my hand in both her hands and pressing it said “Thank you — for everything.” I smiled back and nodded.

In my mind, I said thanks to her as well, for unconsciously reading a book upside down … and in the process, helping me see things straight.