TRAVEL:
Strikingly Beautiful: Highway 1 to Union Hotel, Occidental, California
You can talk to anyone, a resident of Northern California or someone who has visited and they will all tell you pretty much the same answer: This has to be most beautiful, unique and diverse countryside in the nation. The further north you go the more bucolic and nature-friendly it becomes. On this journey we’re taking you on a serpentine carousel of undulating asphalt. You’re surrounded by the serene green waves of postcard villages, farmland and contented cows munching the grass with lazy insouciance, writes our travel editor Al Auger.
(Above): The view of the Pacific Ocean from the Pacific Coast on Highway 1.
The tiny village of Occidental in upper Marin County began back in the 1840’s with farmers, cattle ranchers and loggers. William “Dutch Bill” Howard and Melvin “Boss” Meeker first owned the territory that was to become Occidental. The very first permanent resident of the burgeoning Occidental was Howard. In 1891, Giovanni and Giovanna Gobettis bought the building that became the Union Saloon, a eatery and drinking establishment for 35 years. The Gobettis sold the building to Carlo Panizzera in 1925. Panizzeri operated the upper floor as a the original hotel and the first floor as the restaurant and bar. From the Panizzera family grew the Gonnella family who still operates the historical establishment. The hotel was closed in 1929 when the railroad stopped operating to Occidental.
During weekdays the serenity is palpable. Locals stretch on the store porches, dressed in the ubiquitous bib coveralls and straw hat or pony tail, tie-dye shirt and boots; women shop and gather to pass on the latest news. Upper Marin County is a way of life unchanged, a lifestyle fast disappearing everywhere else in the U.S.
But, a trip to Occidental is a double pleasure treasure. Once you’ve experienced the inland route, and I’m sure you will return, you can traverse the equally bucolic and beautiful Highway 1 through some of the most serene countryside and interesting road in the Bay Area.
(Above): The landmark Golden Gate Bridge joining San Francisco and Marin County.
We left San Francisco on one of those lushly beautiful winter days, under sparkling blue skies and a benevolent warm sun shining down. We crossed the Golden Gate bridge into Marin County and found ourselves on a strangely, but gloriously, empty Highway 1.
We begin our journey northward on Highway 101 as far as Petaluma and the last of the urban communities of Marin are behind. We turn off on state highway 116, ahead stretches the sinuous asphalt as it winds through the picturesque and bucolic villages of upper Marin to Sebastopol where we turn left to Freestone where we take a right to our destination deep in the shadows of majestic towering redwoods, Occidental and the renowned and iconic Union Hotel.
For those who have never enjoyed the delightful curves, bends, dips and scenery of this world famous byway, a description is necessary.
Approximately 5 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge we exited highway 101 at Mill Valley. Almost immediately the road becomes a snake, heading up towards Mt. Talmapais and the sleeping maiden. A short jaunt and we veered West towards Muir Beach and Muir Woods. We stopped at Muir Beach and enjoyed an alfresco picnic on the beach laid back against a giant log and were lulled into a sense of pure quietude by the sounds of the surf.
(Above): The picturesque drive through the hills of Marin County.
Off again, we head up the rim of the sparkling blue waters of Tomales Bay went skimming by, commercial fishing boats bobbing with the waves. On our next trip up the legendary Highway 1 we would stop for a cache of succulent oysters from one of the many oyster farms that rim Tomales Bay.
Ahead of us were the Norman Rockwell burgs of Tomales, Valley Ford and Bodega. At Bodega we turn right and head back to Freestone, left turn and we enter Occidental.
When we first began our many visits to the Union Hotel in the l960s it was still much like the hotel when the Gonnella family began operation back in 1925. Two main course were available, delicious roasted chicken or steak. Today, the Gonnella family has joined the 21st century with the establishment of two restaurants in Santa Rosa and broadening both the dining facilities and menu. My only regret is the main bar, still as funky as ever, finally removed “Scotch and Soda” by the Four Freshman from the jukebox.
(Above): Fishing trawlers in Bodega Bay.
Today you can dine in intimate separate tables on a menu that is chockfull of numerous dishes. Or on a nice spring, summer or fall (the best time), you can dine outside and watch the interesting parade of visitors such as yourself and the colorful locals passing by. Except for the inner joys of dining in the clean air under the Lindsay-blue skies on a spring or summer day, the late year is a time to join the people at a family table inside and become — for the nonce — a local. The Union Hotel is strictly a family-style restaurant and begins with a large menu of appetizers and side orders, a bowl of steaming minestrone, antipasto, salad and your choice of main courses or pizza.
Appetizers include bruschetta, roast garlic and brie, calamari and a large and varied list of main courses; Personally, I stray from the more sophisticated menu and opt out for the original family-style menu minestrone, crisp green salad topped with Italian-style homemade dressing, antipasto, homemade ravioli, stir-fried vegetables and sourdough French bread. Be frugal with all of the above, as you now have a choice of New York Steak, Roast Chicken, Roast Duck or Chicken Cacciatore.
(Above): The Union Hotel in Occidental, Calif. is a landmark in its own right. (Top): The area is famous for its wineries.
When you leave, be sure and stop by the bakery and take home some of the sweet aroma of pastries and the deep and seductive coffee. The Bakery is also a great morning stop if you decide to stay overnight. Occidental has numerous modern motels and architecturally historic hotels.
The trip home is a different route and some preordained cautions. If you stay overnight, the caveats won’t matter. But leaving Occidental at dark is fraught with a numbers of concerns. Deer being the prime problem when leaving as the road is not lighted and deep, deep dark. Deer crossing midst the numerous quick turns can be a surprise and a danger. Be cautious until you reach Freestone. From here you shunt to Sebastopol and highway 116 and to Petaluma and Highway 101.
Bon appetite!
Union Hotel: Pizzeria - Café - Bakery
3731 Main St., Occidental, CA 95465
T: 707-874-3555 | unionhoteloccidental.com
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Al Auger is a freelance writer. He lives in Fairfax, Calif.
