Wanderlust: Bollywood, Beach and ‘Bhaji’ – Festive Mumbai Chaos
Gateway of India.
Dubai started the show off with a bang, but it was finally time to head into the heart of India—and catch my breath. Mumbai, however, had other plans.
With over 12 million people calling this city home—basically the entire population of Pennsylvania—it’s no surprise Mumbai never truly slows down. The second I stepped out of the airport, I was welcomed by the signature Indian chaos: honking, humidity, and the hum of something electric in the air.
Day 1: Bollywood Dreams & Street Food Experiments
But I had no time to waste and was immediately sent on a mission: a pilgrimage to Amitabh Bachchan’s house. Not for me… okay, maybe a little… but mostly for my folks back home. A crowd had already gathered outside his gate, waiting on the slim chance of a wave. Bollywood really does show its prowess as a religion.
From there, I attempted to walk along Juhu Beach, but was instantly overwhelmed by the crowds. The sea of people masked the sand, and after five minutes and a few photos, I’d had enough. A quick escape led me to another Bollywood landmark: Prithvi Theatre. I made a beeline for the café and dove into some of the cuisine. Overwhelmed by the expansive menu, I settled on the Amritsari aloo kulcha, which turned out to be a flaky and flavorful delight.
The real heart and soul of India lies in its street food, so I had to get my hands on some. Dinner that evening was an experiment gone slightly sideways: pav bhaji dosa. Definitely on the creative side. As flavorful as it was, it just wasn’t my cup of tea.
Day 2: From Suburb to Skyline
Driving into the city on Coastal Road gave me a front-row seat to Mumbai’s skyline and its split personality. As you leave the suburbs, everything changes. The roads get smoother, drivers seem more civil, and suddenly, rickshaws vanish. It’s like a visual metaphor for the city’s layers.
First on the list was Nariman Point. The skies weren’t totally clear, but the view still delivered a cinematic glimpse of the Arabian Sea. Not far off, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel left me speechless.
Gorgeous both inside and out—and the chocolate hazelnut pastry at La Patisserie was dangerously good. The Taj Shopping Arcade was decked out with luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Montblanc. Yeah, I already spent too much on my tickets to afford anything here. So long, Taj.
Just across the street stood the Gateway of India, partially hidden by scaffolding but still monumental in presence—and absolutely brimming with people.
Famished, I made my way to Khyber, and I’m not exaggerating when I say: possibly the best chicken I’ve ever had. Perfectly cooked, tender, full of flavor—just unreal. Their naans were also baked to perfection. Safe to say, they know their way around a tandoor.
Day 3: Mall Food & Rickshaw Acrobatics
I started the day with a rickshaw ride, which felt part rollercoaster, part street-smart ballet. Dusty? Absolutely. But the way drivers thread their way through Mumbai traffic is nothing short of art.
Lunch was a mixed bag—Carter’s Blue chicken roll had potential but was packed with a too-sweet cream that threw me off. I bounced back at Infinity Mall. After a quick security screening at the door, I indulged in some paani puri and vada pav from the food court. Not expecting much from mall food, this surprisingly hit the spot. The spice had me in tears… as it should.
Then came the highlight: Cremure. The cannolis here? Incredible. Crisp shell, perfect filling—easily one of the best desserts of the trip. As a bonus, we ran into an Instagram influencer doing a little shoot. Classic.
Later that evening, I indulged in all sorts of last-minute street food. I wrapped things up at Bayleaf Cafe, where I fully surrendered to sugar: a hot sizzling brownie topped with ice cream and a hazelnut cake. A sugar rush was imminent—but so worth it.
Day 4: Entering My Own Bollywood Scene
One last early morning visit to Juhu Beach made up for the earlier fiasco. Fewer people, gentler sun, and some of the most refreshing coconut water I’ve ever had—straight from the source. A perfect sendoff…
Indigo, however, had other plans.
Upon arrival at the airport, I was denied access to the priority check-in line (which I paid for) and was assured I’d make it to the counter in time. But once I reached it, they refused to take my bags and pushed me off to the rescheduling desk.
They persistently blamed me for missing my flight, even though I wasn’t allowed to use the service I’d paid for. After about an hour of arguing, I was made to buy a new ticket for the next day—without any of the original benefits—and they refused to entertain any questions. Half a day and all of my sanity later, their customer service was still stonewalling.
After losing hours (and probably a pound of hair), I figured I might as well ride out the delay and hit a few last stops I’d missed.
I visited the ISKCON Temple, which felt more like a palace than a place of worship. You don’t really walk, you just flow with the crowd like a lazy river. Right across the street stood Shree Mukteshwar Devalaya, where I saw the many vibrant forms of the gods that reflect Hinduism’s complexity and depth.
I rounded off the day with something sweet (ice cream, if you were wondering) and turned in early. Armed with frustration and a little more wisdom, I showed up extra early the next morning—determined not to be taken for a ride again. Sometimes, twisting facts can go a long way (wink wink).
Bonus Day: Layover, But Make It Sweet
After a whirlwind across the country, it was finally time to fly home. But not before one last treat: Naturals’ tadgola ice cream during my layover. Sweet, simple, and uniquely coastal—like Mumbai itself.
Mumbai. It’s home to Bollywood, a city that swerves between ancient and modern, calm and chaotic, sacred and street-smart. Unfortunately, Indigo has a bit of a monopoly in domestic travel. Maybe consider getting more steps in—and just take the train instead.
All photos: Janam A. Gupta/Siliconeer
